Shopping for jewellery can sometimes feel overwhelming. With so many terms floating around — 925 sterling silver, gold plating, vermeil, cubic zirconia, solid gold... how do you know what’s actually worth your money?

At LUME, we believe knowledge is power. Whether you’re just starting your jewellery collection or refining an already loved one, this is the only page you’ll ever need to read to become confident at identifying jewellery quality. After this, you’ll be able to spot the difference between everyday costume jewellery and pieces that are made to last.

1. Jewellery Materials: The Foundation of Quality

The base metal determines how long jewellery lasts, how it feels on your skin, and whether it’s worth the price.

Common Materials

2. Jewellery Plating Explained: What You Need to Know

Learning to read plating is like learning to read fabric weight in fashion. Once you know what the numbers mean, you can tell at a glance how a piece will wear in real life.

First, what plating actually is

Plating adds a precious metal layer on top of a base metal. Think of a layered cake.

• Base layer is the core metal such as sterling silver or stainless steel
• Bonding layer helps precious metal stick cleanly
• Top layer is the decorative precious metal such as gold or rhodium

The unit you will see

Thickness is measured in microns written as µm.

• One micron equals one thousandth of a millimeter
• A human hair is about sixty to eighty microns
• Two and a half microns is roughly the thickness of a very fine mist on that hair
• This helps customers picture what they are paying for.

Thickness tiers and what they mean in daily wear

Numbers below are common ranges used across the jewellery world. Real life durability still depends on how often you wear the piece, skin chemistry, storage, and whether the piece rubs against keyboards, handles, or other rings.

Gold vermeil defined

Gold vermeil is a protected term in some markets. The widely accepted standard is

• Base must be sterling silver
• Gold purity must be at least ten karat often fourteen or eighteen karat
• Gold thickness must be at least 2.5 µm

Why it matters

If any of the three conditions is missing, it is not vermeil. For example gold over brass at two point five microns is not vermeil. Gold over sterling silver at one micron is not vermeil either.

Gold filled defined

• A very thick layer of real gold (at least 5% of the piece’s total weight) mechanically bonded to a base, usually brass.

• More durable than plating or vermeil, but usually more expensive.

• Popular in the U.S., less common elsewhere.

Quick takeaway:

Vermeil sits between everyday plating and gold filled. It combines a precious base with meaningful thickness at a price many customers prefer.

Rhodium plating in plain language

Rhodium is a precious metal used to brighten silver and to add extra resistance to tarnish.

• Typical thickness is about 0.05 to 0.1 microns
• It boosts shine and slows down tarnish on sterling silver
• It can be reapplied during a refresh service

PVD and IP finishes

Some stainless steel jewellery uses vacuum deposited finishes, often called PVD or ion plating.

• Very hard wearing tint or color finish
• Often used for watches
• The gold tone is usually not a thick layer of karat gold

Good to know when comparing prices across materials.

3. Stones: What Creates the Sparkle

Not all stones are equal. The type of stone determines brilliance, price, and longevity.

• Glass or Plastic Stones: Cheap, dull shine, scratches easily.

• Cubic Zirconia (CZ): Lab-created, diamond-like brilliance, affordable, durable.

• Lab-Grown Diamonds: Chemically identical to natural diamonds, sustainable, premium.

• Natural Gemstones: Timeless, but quality varies widely depending on cut and clarity.

✨ LUME’s Choice: We hand-select the finest cubic zirconia stones, chosen for clarity and light performance.

4. Hallmarks & Stamps

Hallmarks are small stamps that indicate authenticity and purity. Common ones include:

• 925 = Sterling Silver

• 14k / 18k = Gold purity

• Pt = Platinum

4. How to read a product page like a pro

Use this five step checklist when you shop online

1. Identify the base metal such as sterling silver or stainless steel
2. Look for thickness stated in microns or a clear tier such as heavy plate or vermeil
3. Check gold karat for the top layer such as 14 or 18 karat
4. Look for hallmarks on the base such as 925 on silver
5. Read the care guidance and refresh options such as replating or polishing

5. How LUME approaches quality 

Quality at LUME is woven into every detail: from the metals we choose to the way your jewellery arrives in your hands. We don’t believe in shortcuts; we believe in creating pieces that stay radiant and meaningful for years.

• Solid Foundations

  Every design begins with 925 sterling silver, a precious metal known for its strength, skin-friendliness, and timeless appeal.

• Premium Gold Finishes

  Our jewellery is plated in a thick layer of 14k or 18k gold (> 1.5 µm) — carefully measured for durability and glow. Unlike flash plating, our finishes are designed for everyday sparkle with mindful care.

• Stones That Truly Shine

  We select only the finest cubic zirconia, cut for brilliance and clarity. Each stone is hand-checked to ensure it captures and reflects light beautifully, rivaling even natural gemstones.

• Thoughtful Craftsmanship

  From secure prong settings to polished edges, every detail is inspected to meet our standards. Comfort is just as important as sparkle, your piece should feel as good as it looks.

• Design with Longevity in Mind

  We review every style for friction points, ensuring beauty is balanced with wearability. Pieces are created not only for the occasion but for the rhythm of daily life.

• Care and Refresh

  We provide clear guidance for storage, cleaning, and wear, and offer refresh services so your jewellery can always feel brand new.

• Sustainability Matters

  With every order, we contribute to reforestation by planting a tree. Our packaging is designed to be both beautiful and eco-conscious, reflecting a deeper commitment to lasting value.

We want you to know exactly what you’re wearing and why it matters. Every choice we make — from sterling silver bases to premium finishes and responsible packaging, is intentional. We share these details openly because we believe quality should never be a mystery. Above all, we’re transparent. If you have any questions, we're always here to help. Email us at care@lumejewellery.com, we always reply within the same day. x